China is a contradiction - from the tradition that requires
you to pass things to a person with both hands (apparently to signify you give
all of yourself with the proffered business card/payment) to the soaring modern
skyscrapers casting shadows over botanical gardens. From the military precision
with which they run events (I was treated to a special visa channel at the
airport and road closures to get us to the conference quickly!) to the cyclists
on the road who travel against traffic, across traffic, on pavements and
crossings, and just about everywhere apart from in the same direction as
everyone else.
The people are exceedingly polite - on thanking a
waitress for retrieving the bill I was told it was her 'greatest pleasure' to
serve me. On taking a swim in the empty hotel pool 2 members of staff I had
never met before appeared from nowhere and stood at the edge. I mimed to them
if they would like me to leave, assuming they were perhaps waiting to clean the
pool. One replied, "No Miss Jayne, we are here to take care of you." Feeling
slightly outnumbered and a little uncomfortable I left shortly after. Standing
up in restaurants or at the hotel reception was also not allowed, I was ushered
to a seat everytime I tried to do something for myself. Whether a national
habit or a sign of the excellent service at Le Meridien hotel I am not sure.
This politeness however does not
stretch to the roads. One morning I witnessed a small collision on a chaotic
crossing - nothing unusual in most parts of Asia. Except 5 hours later I passed
the same spot and the parties involved were still there, still arguing about who
was to blame, and still causing massive disruption to the traffic.
And
what about the spitting. There is nothing polite about hoicking up a huge ball
of phlegm and depositing it at your neighbours feet. Taxi drivers expectorate
out the window and you pray it doesn't fly back in with the wind, straight into
your face. (Maybe this is why Chinese passengers sit in the front seat?!) Even
women join in this disgusting habit, and even at temples. It appears nothing is
sacred when it comes to the spitting habit.
My reaction to the food caused disappointed in myself. I
love traditional Thai, Malaysian, Indian, indeed anything but it appears my
taste buds will only accept Western versions of Chinese food. I could find
nothing appetising about giant sea creatures in large washing up bowls on the
steps of restaurants and the fact that I could not read mandarin and thus
identify what it was I was being served did not help matters. On visiting a
night food market I was shocked to find myself physically retching. How is it
that what some culture's call delicacies I can only describe as akin to faeces?
I was repulsed by the food and thus disgusted with myself.
In a land
that is famous for historic Great Walls and terracotta armies its surprising to
find bling on every corner. Lights from one end of a skyscraper to another,
signs blinking everywhere, adverts where you least expect them. Bridges,
beaches, lamp posts - if they stand still for long enough they get dripped in
twinkly lights. In Xiamen they build motorways on the beach. In 5 mins you can
travel from a tranquil Buddhist temple to the beach which consists of sand, sea,
concrete pillars and an elevated 4 lane highway - and this is a tourist
attraction. Interesting.
Fancy a taste of the celebrity lifestyle? Well the
pointing, staring and photographing side of celebrity anyhow. As a white woman
with blue eyes and travelling solo I seemed to be the biggest tourist attraction
in town. It is actually rather endearing when families kick their father out of
the group shot so that he can take one of you with the family instead. And if
they happen to know the word 'Hello' everyone from children to grandparents will
have no qualms at shouting it at you, repeatedly, delightedly, until you are not
sure what to do and gingerly make to leave.
My experience of China
sparked a myriad of reactions. Some good, some ugly, some surprising. China is
an experience in itself and despite what this post may lead you to believe, it's
an experience I can't wait to repeat. When it comes travelling I believe any
reaction is better than none!
